Shakshuka

Another of those “this not a recipe” recipes.

I met shakshuka first in Cairo and loved the simplicity – just a good tomato sauce, with eggs.

Beyond that, nations, regions, and indeed families have made it their own. Some folks don’t add the onions, or the garlic, or even both. For the spices and/or herbs, the rule is simple – whatever works, as long as the tomato “rules the pan”. Poach the eggs, or (as in Yemen) scramble them.

So what makes a GOOD shakshuka?

• First – your tomatoes. They MUST be very ripe and full of flavour. Forget your standard supermarket “salad” tomato; forget tinned tomatoes*. If that’s all you have, don’t make shakshuka!
  
  Where I live, Aldi’s vine-ripened tomatoes get closest to Egypt’s sun-ripened best, pretty well straight out of the field. But only if I let them ripen on the kitchen counter for a week or ten days.

• Second – your eggs. Cook low and slow, until only JUST set. Don’t overcook. Don’t go fast.

The magic of a good shakshuka for me? The creaminess of a runny egg yolk, melding with an ALMOST over-ripe tomato.

*All right – I have used tinned tomatoes on rare occasions, but in all honesty, they come up lacking.

Ingredients

• olive oil
• 1 onion, medium chopped
• 1 green pepper, diced same size
• 3-6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 green chilli, chopped
  • Your call on seasonings?
    • 1-2 tsp paprika, ½ tsp thyme, and ½ tsp cayenne pepper?
    • swap ground cumin (or cumin seed?) for the thyme?
    • go Moroccan, with 2 tsp harissa paste, and 1 tsp ras al hanout or cumin instead?
    • or Yemeni – with ½-1 tsp hawaij (Yemeni “mixed spice”) and extra fresh chilli?
      

    • You get the idea – whatever takes your fancy at breakfast time. Your call on measures – just don’t overpower the ripe tomatoes and the egg yolk.
• 4-5 good-sized RIPE tomatoes (see above!)
• 3-4 eggs
• fresh coriander, roughly chopped

Method

• Heat the oil in a large frying pan; fry the onion over a medium heat until it is turning gold.
• Add the peppers, and fry until both are soft.
• Stir in the garlic and spices and cook for another couple of minutes.
• Add the tomatoes, and simmer for 30 minutes or more. Adjust the seasoning to your taste.
  • For the commonest style of shakshuka around the Middle East,
    • Make a “well” in the sauce for each egg, and break them in. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
    • Turn the heat down low and cook gently until the eggs have only just set – for about 10 minutes maybe.
  • For Yemeni style, the eggs are usually scrambled …
    • Lightly beat the eggs and add to the tomatoes.
    • Let the mixture cook until half-way set, about 3 minutes, then stir the mixture slightly to ensure even cooking.
• Sprinkle with coriander (or parsley?) and serve with pitta or similar.